Bandha frames

Poetry on the loom

The origin story of ikat, much like the patterns it creates - are a little blurry. Trade routes through history make it difficult to determine. The word itself is derived from ‘mengikat’, the Malay/Indonesian word meaning to tie or bind. But the resist-dyeing method evolved and flourished independently as it travelled. In Odisha, it came to be known as bandha, and the techniques that were developed and mastered in this little corner of the world are GI tagged for their uniqueness.

The process of tying and dyeing warp and/or weft threads prior to weaving employs astonishingly complex mathematical expertise. Once ready, the threads are stretched out in backyards and village streets. Small knots are tied across the length of the yarn to ensure the patterns do not shift once transferred to the loom. The artistry is heavily dependent on this poetic precision, which conversely results in distinct soft-edged patterns. This display of a tied and dyed turtle motif freeze frames some of these processes, illustrating the intricacy and community effort involved in the making of bandha.